Pit Boss ErH Code Meaning & Fixes: The Complete Troubleshooting Guide
Pit Boss Pellet Grill Displaying Error Code ErH on Control Board
Troubleshooting Guide

Pit Boss “ErH” Code Explained: Why It Happens & How to Fix It Fast

1. Panic on the Patio: What is ErH?

You’ve got a brisket on for a 12-hour smoke. Everything is going perfectly until you hear a beep, look at the controller, and see three flashing letters: ErH. The auger has stopped, the fan is blowing, and your cook is in jeopardy. If you have searched Reddit threads or forums like r/PitBossGrills, you know you aren’t alone.

The “ErH” code is one of the most common error messages on Pit Boss pellet grills. While it can be alarming—especially if accompanied by billowing white smoke—it is usually a safety feature kicking in rather than a catastrophic failure of the unit. This guide will explain exactly what the code means, why it triggered, and how to get your grill back up and running before your meat is ruined.

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2. What Does “ErH” Actually Mean?

ErH stands for Error High Heat (sometimes displayed as “ErH” or flashing “H”).

This code triggers when the internal temperature of the grill exceeds a safety limit set by the manufacturer. For most Pit Boss models, this threshold is around 600°F (315°C), though it can vary slightly by model. When the internal thermometer (RTD probe) detects heat this high, the controller assumes something is wrong—likely a grease fire—and cuts power to the auger to stop feeding fuel to the fire. The fan usually stays on to try and burn out the remaining pellets.

Safety First!

If you see ErH, do not immediately open the lid if you suspect a grease fire. Introducing a rush of oxygen to a smoldering grease fire can cause a dangerous flashover. Turn the grill off and let it cool down first.

3. The 4 Common Causes of ErH

Why did your grill hit 600°F when you set it to 225°F? Here are the usual suspects.

3.1 The Grease Fire Factor

The most common cause is a grease fire. If you haven’t cleaned your grease tray or bucket recently, accumulated fat can ignite. This creates a secondary fire outside the fire pot, causing temperatures to spike rapidly out of control. This is why maintenance is not optional with pellet grills.

3.2 The Dirty Temperature Probe

Inside the barrel of your grill, there is a small vertical metal rod (the RTD probe). This reads the temperature. Over time, smoke and grease coat this probe in a black layer of carbon. This insulation makes the probe read the temperature as lower than it actually is. The controller thinks the grill is too cold, so it dumps more pellets, eventually causing the actual temperature to skyrocket past the safety limit.

3.3 Fuel Overload (The “Explosion”)

If your grill failed to ignite properly on the first try, the fire pot might have been full of unburnt pellets. If you restart it without cleaning them out, that massive pile of wood catches fire all at once, creating a massive heat surge that triggers ErH.

4. Step-by-Step Fix Guide

Follow these steps to clear the code and resume cooking safely.

  1. Turn Off and Unplug: Immediately power down the grill and unplug it to reset the controller logic.
  2. Open the Lid (Carefully): Once you are sure there is no active grease fire, open the lid to vent the heat.
  3. Inspect the Fire Pot: Remove the grates and heat deflector. Check if the fire pot is overflowing with pellets. If so, vacuum them out.
  4. Check for Obstructions: Ensure the auger isn’t jamming or feeding irregularly.
  5. Clean the Probe: Locate the RTD probe. Use a damp cloth or mild soapy water to wipe away the black carbon buildup until it is shiny silver again.
  6. Restart: Plug the grill back in. Turn it to the “Smoke” setting and leave the lid open for 10 minutes (standard startup procedure) before setting your desired temperature.
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5. Preventing the ErH Code

Prevention is better than a ruined brisket. Here is your checklist to avoid seeing ErH again.

  • Clean Every 3-5 Cooks: Vacuum the ash from the fire pot. Ash buildup restricts airflow, causing inefficient burns and temperature spikes.
  • Scrape the Drip Tray: Use a putty knife to scrape hardened grease off your heat deflector/drip tray.
  • Use Liners: Foil liners for your grease bucket make cleanup easier, encouraging you to do it more often.
  • Cap the Chimney Correctly: If your chimney cap is screwed down too tight, heat cannot escape, causing internal temps to rise. Leave about a 1-2 inch gap.

6. When to Replace Parts

If you have cleaned the probe, emptied the fire pot, and verified there is no grease fire, but the ErH code persists immediately upon startup, your RTD Temperature Probe is likely dead. It is a common wear item. Fortunately, they are inexpensive and easy to swap out with a screwdriver.

Less commonly, the control board itself may have shorted out. If a new probe doesn’t fix it, contact Pit Boss customer support for a controller replacement.

7. Frequently Asked Questions

Can I finish my cook after an ErH code?

What is the “P” setting and does it cause ErH?

Is ErH the same as ErL?

How do I reset my Pit Boss controller?

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