Why Is My Masterbuilt Smoker Not Heating Up? (Electric & Gravity Series Fixes)
1. The Cold Smoker Nightmare
You prepped the ribs, seasoned the pork butt, and woke up early to start your Masterbuilt smoker. You set the temp to 225°F, walked away, and came back an hour later to find… a cold box. The digital display might say it’s on, or maybe it’s flashing an error, but the heat just isn’t there.
Masterbuilt smokers are incredibly popular for their ease of use, but they are notorious for specific heating failures. Whether you have a digital electric vertical smoker or the newer Gravity Series charcoal smoker, “failure to launch” is a common headache. The good news? It is almost always a fixable part, not a dead unit.
In this guide, we will break down exactly why your Masterbuilt isn’t heating up, separating the issues by model type, and giving you the exact steps to get back to smoking today.
2. Identify Your Model: Electric vs. Gravity
Troubleshooting requires knowing your machine. Masterbuilt heating problems generally fall into two categories:
- Digital Electric Smokers (MES): These look like mini-fridges. They use a resistive heating element at the bottom (like an oven) to generate heat. Common issues involve the element burning out or corrosion on connectors.
- Gravity Series (Charcoal): These use a hopper of charcoal and a fan to control heat. If they aren’t heating up, it’s rarely the “fuel”—it’s almost always the computer refusing to turn the fan on because of a faulty sensor switch.
We will cover both below.
For electric smokers, this is the #1 failure point. If your controller is on but the box is cold, swapping this simple part usually brings the smoker back to life.
Check Price on Amazon3. Masterbuilt Electric Smoker Problems
If you have the vertical “fridge-style” smoker, here are the likely culprits.
3.1 The Heating Element Failure
The heating element is the black, looped metal rod at the bottom of the smoker. Over time, the constant heating and cooling cycles cause the internal wire to break, or grease drips cause corrosion.
The Test: Turn the smoker on High. If the controller light is on, the timer is counting down, but the element remains cold to the touch (be careful!) after 5 minutes, the element is dead. You can verify this with a multimeter checking for continuity. Replacement takes about 10 minutes and a screwdriver.
3.2 The Controller & Wiring
Sometimes the brain is the problem. If your display won’t turn on, or if it reads a temperature like “300°F” when the inside is actually freezing cold, the controller or the temperature sensor is faulty. If the controller thinks the smoker is already hot, it won’t send power to the heater.
The Fix: Unplug the smoker. Locate the back panel. Check for loose or corroded wire connections (spade clips). Sometimes simply unplugging and re-plugging these spade connectors scrapes off oxidation and restores the connection.
3.3 The Extension Cord Trap
This is a silent killer of electric smokers. Masterbuilt explicitly advises against using extension cords. Why? Because long, thin cords cause “voltage drop.”
The smoker needs a lot of power (amps) to get that element glowing. If you use a cheap, household extension cord, the smoker might turn on (lights/display work), but the element won’t get enough juice to get hot. It might hover at 150°F and never climb higher.
Safety Check
If you MUST use an extension cord, ensure it is a Heavy Duty (12 or 10 gauge) outdoor cord rated for 15-20 amps. A standard orange garden cord is likely choking your smoker’s power supply.
4. Masterbuilt Gravity Series Problems
The Gravity Series (560, 800, 1050) are amazing machines, but they rely on a complex system of safety switches. If the grill isn’t heating up, it’s usually because the fan isn’t blowing.
4.1 The Infamous Door Switches
The Gravity Series has three safety switches: the Hopper Lid, the Hopper Ash Door, and the Main Grill Lid. If the computer thinks any of these are open, it cuts the fan to prevent a fire flare-up.
The Symptoms: You set the temp, light the fire starter, but the fan never kicks on. Or, the fan runs for a second and stops. The display might show “OPEN.”
The Fix: These switches (especially the lid and ash door) get stuck or melt. Manually press the plunger on each switch to see if it clicks. Many owners bypass these switches or upgrade to aftermarket mods because the stock switches fail so often.
4.2 Fan Failure & Ash Blockage
Sometimes the switches work, but the fire is choked. If you reuse charcoal, ash can compact at the bottom of the hopper grate, blocking airflow. The fan might be blowing, but the air can’t get to the fire.
The Fix: Always shake the charcoal grate vigorously before a cook to knock loose ash into the bucket. If the fan isn’t spinning at all (and switches are fine), check the fan flap—sometimes creosote glues the flap shut, physically preventing the fan from blowing air.
The most common fail point on the Gravity Series 560/800/1050. Keeping a spare set of these switches in your toolkit can save a weekend BBQ.
Check Price on Amazon5. Step-by-Step Diagnostic Guide
Before you buy parts or call support, run this checklist:
- Power Check: Is it plugged directly into a wall outlet? If not, switch to one to rule out the extension cord. Check your GFCI outlet—did it trip?
- Display Check: Is the controller displaying an error code (ERR1, ERR2)? These specific codes often point to a bad temperature probe.
- The “Click” Test (Gravity Series): Open and close every door. Do you hear the fan stop and start? If not, find the switch that isn’t clicking.
- The Touch Test (Electric): Turn to MAX temp. After 5 minutes, hover your hand over the element. No heat? Element is dead. Heat but low temp? Controller/Sensor issue.
- Clean the Sensor: Locate the thermostat probe inside the smoker. Is it covered in black gunk? Scrub it clean. A dirty probe gives false readings.
Moisture is the enemy of electronics. If you store your smoker outside, a high-quality cover prevents corrosion on the contacts that leads to heating failure.
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